Benjamuna's Blog

Stories…. with a touch of India….

Some favourite book covers… April 26, 2013

I’m not a wine connoisseur…. I like wine, but I know nothing about it. I have tasted expensive red wines, but realised it wasn’t really worth it, at least if I would have to pay myself… So what I sometimes go for, is the label. Within a price range, of course… If I don’t know what to buy, I choose a really nice label.
But this is not about wine, it’s about books! Very often I go looking for a specific novel or a specific author. Sometimes I buy one by chance. And what initially attracts me is very often the book cover.  Then I turn around the book and read about it.

I can’t remember where I found Saraswati Park by Anjali Joseph, but I guess I fell for the bicycle, the flourish around the edges, the font and the green shades. The bicycle made me curious… although I didn’t expect the novel to tell a story about bicycles. What it does tell, is the story about Mohan; a letter writer in Bombay. A dying phenomenon. Never the less, when I visited Bombay last November a guide took me to the remaining letter writers outside the General Post Office in the south of Bombay. I felt lucky… I was able to see something that represents – soon – another time. In short; the letter writers have for decades written letters on behalf of those – migrants for example – who are not able to write themselves. Or, they fill in forms and help sending parcels. These days, even the underprivileged have access to a cell phone, and thus the letter writers are on decline.

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A bitter-sweet story.

Calcutta Exile by Bunny Suraiya is definitely novel I bought because of the book cover, and also because I’d like to go to Calcutta – where I haven’t been yet. This might not be great literature and a book to remember, but it tells the story about Anglo-Indians and in that respect depicts a part of Indian history.

Calcutta’s Anglo-Indians, one of the most graceful and beautiful communities of India, became bewildered orphans, suddenly uncertain of their roots and equivocal about their future.

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A book cover that says… travel back in time.

Anosh Irani was new to me before I read about him in a magazine recently. Dahanu Road is his most recent novel. Literature never fails to enlighten me. I have now learnt that there are Parsis and there are Iranis… but that is another story. On the front cover you can see the chikoo fruit; not only does it look good but it plays an important role in the novel. Dahanu Road is one of these books permeated by domestic violence and whether the end is optimistic or pessimistic I really don’t know… It was, at times, a struggle to read.

The book is beautifully written – thus a quote from the book:

Shapur Irani always thought of dusk as a beggar. It had no light, it had no darkness; it lived on the scraps that were fed to it by day and night.

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On the bike; Zairos and Kusum…

The Alchemy of Desire brought me to Uttaranchal in the north of India where I met Tarun Tejpal, his father and his wife. Which is yet another story…. I read the novel and knew I just had to go there.  The front cover shows a photo of a house which the story evolves around. This house is now turned into Two Chimneys, a bed and breakfast where we were the very first guests a few years back. I never really thought the house in the book was for real, and I took the cover photo to be nothing but an illustration. But it was all very much real… The house on the hill with the two chimneys… Literature can open doors!

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A book and a house….

 

Food in the gurudwara March 22, 2013

Filed under: INDIA — benjamuna @ 6:27 pm
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In Bapsi Sidhwa’s novel Ice-Candy Man (1988) the partition of India is seen through 7-year-old Lenny’s eyes, herself a Parse. At one point she says

One day everybody is themselves – and the next day they are Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Christian. People shrink, dwindling into symbols.

The novel shows how old friends become enemies because of their different religion. They promised each other eternal friendship, but the Partition eventually drove them apart.

Religion can be hard to defend, still when we travel we often visit temples and churches because they play an important role in many cultures. The Sikh temple, the gurudwara, always has a community kitchen. No matter how simple – or luxurious; every temple has a langar where food is prepared and cooked by volunteers and served to the poor – or to anybody else for that matter.

It’s a fascinating sight. In Gurudwara Sis Ganj i Old Delhi, people sit outside in the sun and prepare carrots and peas. Everybody can join. When I was roaming around inside, taking photos, my guide sat down and took part in the making of the rotis. – It feels right, she says. – I couldn’t just stand here, being idle…

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All utensils were of a formidable size….

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Cooking dal…. Big size!

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The men took care of the carrots, the women concentrated on the peas….

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Inside, the women were busy with the dough…

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No food is wasted. These women take care of the food left on the plates:

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And somebody has to do the dishes…..

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A glimpse of the dining hall.

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Rice donations.

 

Delhi headgear March 17, 2013

Filed under: INDIA — benjamuna @ 5:57 pm
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It’s interesting how we relate to temperatures. For a Norwegian, a sunny day when the thermometer shows 22 degrees Celsius is nothing but a summer’s day! Nice and warm. So when I travelled to Delhi 10 February, I had checked the forecast and I kept telling people that my holiday would be – weather-wise – just perfect. Unlike Mumbai in February, it would be pleasant. Around 22 degrees. Like a Norwegian summer. No sweating and gasping for air in 38 degrees C.

So I packed one pair of sandals, some light tunics and blouses. Funny then to be surrounded by Delhi people wearing sweaters, various headgear, even winter coats and boots. To be honest, I never wore my sandals and in the mornings I even needed a light jacket. You could easily spot tourists among the natives in more than one way… when going to India you sort of expect warm temperatures and pack accordingly.

I started to look at people’s headgear. Some is worn out of tradition or religion, some because it was , well, cold…
All photos are taken in Old Delhi.

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The old man above was seated outside the gurdwara Sis Ganj (Sikh temple). I passed by, but came back asking for his photo. His yellow turban was standing out, like a glowing star.

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Another sikh in the Sis Ganj, helping out in the community kitchen. He looked dedicated, to his chapatis….

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Turban, scarves, jacket…. It was after noon, but I still felt warm from the sun and definitely needed only one layer of clothes….

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A Calvin Klein (!) cap, it suited him. Like it was made for him!

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A crocheted  skull cap…, his clothing was amazingly starched white – in the midst of his potatoes…

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I can’t believe he was cold,  maybe he just felt he looked good with this scarf!

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I didn’t see his face, but I’m pretty sure he looked good!

 

Flying pigeons in Old Delhi March 14, 2013

After reading more than a fair share of “Mumbai literature”,  I started to look for novels with Delhi as a backdrop. Both The Peacock Throne by Sujit Saraf and Twilight in Delhi by Ahmed Ali took me straight into the heart of Old Delhi. To the myriads of bi-lanes and back-lanes. The Peacock Throne made me terribly curious about Chandi Chowk, the main arterial of Old Delhi. Whereas Twiligth in Delhi made me equally curious about flying pigeons…

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Some people seem to think that going on a guided tour is a defeat. The genuine traveller is (supposedly) the independent traveller. For the most part, I strongly disagree. A good guide sometimes makes all the difference and takes you to places you would never end up on your own.
On my recent trip to Delhi I had planned well and carefully booked several trips, among them Old Delhi by Old Delhi Bazaar Walk & Haveli Visit. Food was mentioned as a common thread, but food is something I’m not too interested in – apart from through a camera lens. The trip as a whole seemed interesting though and soon we – a group of five – were in tow behind Dhruv and Anju. Not before long we were “climbing” a rooftop. It was quite early in the day; I didn’t feel the need of escaping neither heat nor crowds. Still, we all filled our lungs with fresh air (as fresh as it gets in Old Delhi) and admired the wide, wide view – which included the beautiful Jama Masjid – before I realised what we really had come for. Pigeons…

Hot gusts of wind were blowing. The leaves of the date palm flapped with dreary sound; and the glare of the sun hurt the eyes. But the pigeon-fliers shouted with gusto, beat corrugated iron sheets, and whistled loudly and long. (Ahmed Ali).

Flying pigeons is very much a part of the culture described in Twilight in Delhi. Mir Nihal keeps his pigeons in cages in his loft. All through the book we share his joys and sorrows; the carefree flying, the small disasters when his beloved pigeons die of heat stroke or end up up in the jaws of a snake. The happiness of finding a really rare specimen…
I tried to envisage the pigeons, their surroundings and not at least the flying. And suddenly I found myself  in the middle of it, on a Delhi rooftop. Dhruv gave his commands; get into position ladies: eek, do teen open the cages. And out came the pigeons.

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Pigeons on their way out….

The flock swarmed above us. They seemed to disappear in the horizon. Then they came closer, and again almost disappeared. Other flocks appeared, but they all kept to each other. The two men on the rooftop were cooing and calling in many ways; shouting, whistling. They know their flock from any other. The flock knows where they belong.
The anticipation grew; how would it look like when they all came back. I was thinking; even if it takes the whole day I want to see the landing because  I was now in the middle of Twilight in Delhi.
– They will come back, Anju reassured us. We all possibly looked a bit doubtful. Still, we enjoyed the time-out and were kept busy with minor activites and posing for each others cameras.

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The flock on its way back….

Yes, the flock landed eventually. Nobody counted, but they all came home to their cages. We had got a glimpse of a nearly vansihed life and culture of Old Delhi. I felt exhilerated as we found our way back to the streets of Old Delhi! Thank you Dhruv – thank you Anju.

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The Jama Masjid as seen from a Delhi rooftop.

 

Buying bangles…. March 5, 2013

Filed under: INDIA — benjamuna @ 6:17 pm
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I have a few kurtas…. Bought in India. Some are a bit “too India” and doesn’t work at home. But for the most part they could go anywhere. But there is this thing about sleeves…. the length of the sleeves to be specific. Almost all are designed with a 2/3 length of the sleeve, and if you wonder why? To make room for the bangles of course. At least that is my conclusion.

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Indian women are among the best dressed in the world. To me, there are two buzz words; colors and match. No need to speak about colors, we all know that Indian women are dressed in either saris or salwaars in bright colors (when speaking about traditional outfits). And every item matches; the kurta (tunic), the trousers and the dupatta (shawl).  Because it’s a set. When I dress in the morning I chose a pair of trousers; if they are black I find – for example – a suitable t-shirt and a blazer – but it’s not a “set” in the sense that these three items are bought together. If you go into an Indian shop you’ll see that a lot of outfits are bought as a set; trousers, kurta, dupatta. And then comes the icing of the cake; the matching bangles….

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A street vendor in Chor Bazaar, Mumbai.

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Experienced hands…. Breach Candy, Mumbai.

Recently, I visited a bangle shop in Old Delhi. Old Delhi is a huge wholesale market divided into many bazaars: Kinari bazaar for beads and jewellery, or the spice market Kaori Baoli. Suddenly you find yourself in a street lined with shops selling marriage invitations only, or, bangles…. It’s amazing really and one shouldn’t turn down a good guide in this incredible maze. It’s easy to get in, I’m not sure I would find my way out without some helping hands. Old Delhi is crowded; you walk abreast with people, goats, cows, cycle rickshaws, two wheelers, bicycles, ox carts and the minute you leave Chandni Chowk – Old Delhi’s main arterial – you’re  a hundred years back in time.

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A fellow travellerer, overjoyed!! (Photo: Dhruv Gupta)

Our guide Dhruv took us to a basement full of bangles. – You can choose some, as a gift he said. Five “girls” panicked simultaneously, what to chose?? I went for brown-ish red-ish glass bangles. The man behind the counter asked me to show my wrist, cast a quick glance and gave me the exact size. I thought the 7-8 bangles I had put on my arm was what I got, but then I was given two boxes full of the same type I had chosen. Excess is a keyword when it comes to bangles… Put them on and remove them all at the same time, we were told. Otherwise they break easily.

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Some facts about bangles: Bangles are part of traditional Indian jewellery. They are usually worn in pairs by women, one or more on each arm. Most Indian women prefer wearing either gold or glass bangles or combination of both. Inexpensive bangles made from plastic are slowly replacing those made by glass, but the ones made of glass are still preferred at traditional occasions such as marriages and on festivals.

It is tradition that the bride will try to wear as many small glass bangles as possible at her wedding the honeymoon will end when the last bangle breaks. Bangles also have a very traditional value in Hinduism and it is considered inauspicious to be bare armed for a married woman.

Recommended trip if you’d like to eplore Old Delhi: www.masterjikeehaveli.com

All photos: Anne-Trine Benjaminsen

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Alladin’s cave… Fellow traveller Julia and me think it’s just…. awesome!

 

October 9, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — benjamuna @ 5:38 pm

I’m late with certain things in life…. I  never wanted a driver’s liscense. Nor did I fancy a cell phone, a home computer, an iPod, iPad or a smartphone. Of course I have them all. And sometimes – getting new things –  means you have to part with things. I have been the owner of a Filofax for many years, it’s leather bound. It has been the inventory of my cycle bag for years and years, thus it looks nice and worn – the good thing about real leather!

A while ago I realised I was the only person in meetings with an old fashioned diary. When new meetings were planned, everybody went svosh on their smartphones and could instantly confirm if they were available or not. Whereas I sat with my nose in my leather bound diary, mumbling someting about it not being updated. Or being terribly funny: Filofax and Outlook are not compatible and thus do not synchronize…

Then I started to attend meetings with my diary AND my smartphone – for some peculiar reason. And my note book – , and the coffe mug. And what more do you bring to meetings? Perhaps a yellow folder with appropriate papers. I felt loaded…. The Filofax was never in use, and suddenly one day it was left at my work place when I went of rmeetings. And what’s more, one day it was left at home.

I use it for keeping  record of all the books I read, I keep track of birthdays (yes, could be transferred to the phone I know), and I keep track of all the Christmas cards I send and the Christmas presents I buy. No way am I going to fit this into my phone.

Now I have a leather bound smartphone case…. Well, not one but three covers (shame shame) and one of them terribly expensive realtive to the small size. Two for ordinary  use and one for travel. Just because I couldn’t decide, and since these things wear & tear very slowly I have to stick to my Sony for yet quite a few years…

 

The beauty of books October 5, 2012

Filed under: Literature — benjamuna @ 7:43 pm
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Sometimes you come across things by pure chance….

As always I was looking for a good bookstore when I was visiting Edinburgh a while ago. I hadn’t expected to find The Golden Hare. It’s a rather anonymous little place from the outside, and I probably hadn’t ventured inside if it wasn’t for a sign saying something about beautiful books. It’s a small place, close to tiny, with a quiet but not unwelcoming woman behind a desk. It didn’t take me long to “crack the code”. In addition to shelves lining the walls there was a table in the middle with quite a few books on display and all had extraordinary book covers. Which made me curious about all the other books on the shelves, and yes – all book covers were out of the ordinary. Which is also the idea of The Golden Hare. In a world, now flooded by gadgets with absolutely no beauty attached to them, this tiny bookstore is nothing less than a jewel.

I bought two books; Anjali Joseph’s second novel Another Country. Quite recently I read her first novel set in Mumbai, Saraswati Park. Might not be Nobel material, but her new one had a beautiful book cover (!) so I decided to give it a chance… (And it proved to be quite good).

The other book I bought was Amitav Ghosh’ sequel to The Sea of Poppies, much awaited River of Smoke – and yes, yet another beautiful book cover.

A few days later we were on our way to The Royal Botanical Garden in Edinburgh, on foot. It was Sunday morning and it took a while; it was a long walk through many residential areas – but suddenly we found ourselves outside an antiquarian book shop. Not a surprise really, there are many of those in Edinburgh – but the window display caught my attraction.

The display of the books was clearly not accidental – it was beautifully set up. Of course it was closed on a Sunday morning, but I knew what we had to do after the botanical garden because fortunately it opened later. This was no ordinary second hand bookstore, it was an antiquarian bookshop with carefully chosen books. You could tell that the owner had a real passion for books.

The last of my paper money changed owner because he had a few interesting Indian books, but some a bit on the expensive side which I left behind.

I made some remarks about the display in the window and yes – the owner admitted he put a great effort in it and he already had great plans for Christmas. Wish I could be there to see….

 

Cornish flowers…. August 7, 2012

Filed under: Flowers — benjamuna @ 6:25 pm
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Looking back on my photos this summer, I don’t see much variation…. Flowers, and more flowers. A trip to Cornwall in early July gave me plenty of photo opportunities. The small town Fowey was full of flowers; hanging baskets and all sorts of other containers full of various annuals in beautiful combinations. Everything so well composed and well maintained.

We also visited some public gardens and were lucky that the Foxgloves were at their best. For the most part we saw the dark pink ones, extremely decorative against the green and lush grass. The Foxgloves are more or less everywhere but not often in our gardens together with the other perennials. But they are so elegant; and span from from the dark pink to the beautiful, innocent white….

Another pink beauty set against a green “wall”:

Poppies have always been a favourite and I was extremely happy when I found these stunning examples in Pineteum Park. When the fragile petals leave the flower, the magnificent seedcapsule appears…. Look at this one; the colour of the petals really matches the seedcapsule! It’s a wonder….

And talking about the pinks and the mauves…. On our daily walk in Fowey we passed these beautiful Marguerites set against a back cloth of yellow… I wanted a special photo, but it was close to the shore and windy. The flowers were swaying, hardly a moment’s peace. But I made it in the end, after a million shots and among them half a million not that sharp….

The Common Yarrow is a wild flower. Years ago, when I was drying flowers I was always searching the road side ditches for the pink one,  but mostly found the white one. But the Yarrow is also a perennial and I saw this beautiful specimen in the nursery of Pinetum Park garden. Nice and yellow!

But back to the pink department…. I was sorry to realise that the Peons were gone, until I found this one. The only one to have survived the bad weather in the area.

The Hortensia was absolutely everywhere, in many many shades. Back home we often see the blue and we think it looks kind of artificial, at least I do. But look at it, real close. Another wonder…. and Cornwall was full of them!

Lobelia was the first annual I took a liking to. For years and years we had one variety at our garden centers; the dark blue. A few years ago came the pink one, these days we have many more blues and more pinks…. But the one below was new to me, I saw it in Polruan outside a private house. So simple – so beautiful!

I have no idea what this is…. but it’s a blue, true beauty in Headland Garden, Polruan….

 

The sheltering sky June 1, 2012

Filed under: Literature — benjamuna @ 7:22 pm
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When I see a film, there is almost always a reason…. Maybe it’s a novel that has been made into a film, like John Irving’s books years ago; The Cider House Rules, to mention one… Or there is a specific actor that I like, or a theme – India perhaps… But I can’t remember why I went to see The Sheltering Sky directed by the acclaimed Bernardo Bertolucci – and this is years back. The film was released in 1990.

The film made a huge impact. It’s shot on location in northern Africa, and the sequences from the Sahara desert are magnificent. All through, the movie has the colours of the desert.

It was only ten years later I discovered that the movie was actually based on a novel; The Sheltering Sky by legendary and cult author Paul Bowles: A Norwegian to-be author had travelled to Tangier to “kneel” by the author’s feet – and a tabloid newspaper was trailing two steps behind… Paul Bowles had many admirers, and he was a man covered by many myths. He died in Tangier, in 1999.

Inspired by the discovery, I read the book, and saw the film one more time. The film should always be seen on widescreen, the tv screen cannot really justify the beautiful filming, but anyway…. And then I ordered what I could get from Amazon – his novels, short stories… and read them all.

I have just read the book for the second time, I suggested it for my reading group – I have no idea why it came up after all these years. I guess it is one of those books everybody should have a go at.
The novel is – in many respects – cruel. As I read it, I was searching for the one word to describe it, and the feeling it evokes. And by coincidence I found just the right word on a web page called The Book Drum, where The Sheltering Sky was described as claustrophobic. And yes, that is the word. And it disturbs your mind.
In short, the novel tells the story of three young people; the married couple Kit & Port and their friend Tunner – who (post war) travel to Northern Africa. From the very start, the novel makes you feel uneasy… and it takes a very nasty turn two-thirds along the way. It’s a paradox that it is now that the beauty of the film gets really serious….

The movie sometimes takes giant steps in the sense that 100 pages are suddenly reduced to two sentences… But then of course, it is not possible to include every move in the book. Still, the film is true to the novel in almost all respects.

What I really remember from the film, is – apart from the colours – Debra Winger’s dry voice and her utter despair as the story unfolds. Plus the couple’s sunglasses, and the leather suitcases. Rich people definitely didn’t travel light in those days…
I’m not sure if I think that John Malkovich is right as Port (although he plays well), because Malkovich has this drowsy, thin voice that makes him sort of weak, and the novel doesn’t – in my opinion – paint a portrait of a week man.

The last page of the novel made my reading group despair…. and the movie is equally confusing. But that’s the authors privilege; only Paul Bowels – in his grave – knows what happened to Kit Moresby.

Highly recommended……….

 

More beads… May 9, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — benjamuna @ 7:29 pm
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The challenge with making jewellery of beads, is that you need a lot…. Because there is always something “missing”. Too few of the same kind, for example. Not the right colours – when you  just got an idea of a colour combination or a special design. The wrong size…. Not enough metal beads, often used in between other beads to create a vintage look. And so on and so on… And right from the outset, you need basic tools. String, or wire and locks.

Keeping beads….

It’s easy to make a bracelet of string. You simply thread beads to a string – about 18 centimeter –  and tie a knot…. The knot must be tied in the right way though; left over right, right over left… and a little glue. I have learnt it from YouTube!
Maybe it looks more proffessional with a wire and a lock. On the other hand – I’m never able to close a bracelet on myself. I take a shower every day, after bicycling to work and I almost always wear a bracelet. So I need a collegaue to get ready…. Another thing is that a bracelet made of string is very flexible, one size fits (almost) all….

A bracelet made of memorywire.

Another very easy way to make bracelets, is to use memory wire. It goes round and round…. and you can cut it as short/long as you want. You must always start by securing the end with a special technique. Securing the other end, when you finish the bracelet, takes more patience. But it’s a quick method, and a fun one as well. And it always looks very good, and moreover – one size fit all!

So far, the best bead shop I’ve been in to, I found on the famous Magazine Street in New Orleans. Simply called The Bead Shop. We took the bus, almost to the far end of the very long street, and the bead shop was an old white house with many rooms. Alladins cave…. When you suddenly find yourself in a place like that, you must go hunting for treasures….

Two bracelets made of string.

When I visited Mumbai a year back, my friend Joan took me to a Bhuleswar market to look for beads. I had been doing research, and I was sure to find Indian glass beads exactly here…. I even had the exact street. To look for special goods in a Mumbai market is very tiresome; you have to fight the heat and the crowds every little second. Joan was sweating, and  I must say, being very patient. I was hanging on, thinking that my plane went to Europe that evening, so we didn’t have all the time in the world. And it all went of in a bad way as we struggled to find a taxi driver who would take us the crazy maze of Bhuleswar….

We went from shop to shop, Joan asking for glass beads…. going here and there – but I wasn’t all to happy with what we eventually found. Indeed we found cloisonne beads, which are expensive at home, but… no. I will have another go in November. The trouble with buying beads in India, is that it is very often based on wholesale. I still have “a million” metal beads bought in Jaipur a couple of years ago, I needed – say a tenth of what I had to buy… But I paid a fraction of what I’m paying at home.

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The bracelet above is partly made from beads picked up at Mardi Gras in New Orleans last year. I made it for my colleague and friend Mansi from Bombay.

Another way of buying beads is going to flea markets and buy jewellery – which I then take apart. Last summer I found a long, beautiful necklace with heavy glass beads and metal beads, and the price was give away…. A treasure, – and I have already made one bracelet out of some of the beads. Another way of getting beads, is to look for jewellery 70 percent off ordinary price in shops like Indiska. I take them apart and reuse them. It’s much cheaper than buying beads piece by piece…

Some very nice handmade beads….

When I decide to make a bracelet, I always have an idea. But very often I end up with something different. It’s the same whne I’m making cards by lettering. The ideas change under way.
In early June I will travel to Chichester south of London and learn more… with a bag full of beads!

Elephant charm…

Always looking for boxes to keep beads…; these are little food trays from Delta Airlines!