Benjamuna's Blog

Stories…. with a touch of India….

The fate of the Yellow Taxi March 22, 2026

Will any yellow taxi in Kolkata still be a Yellow Taxi?

Everybody who visits Kolkata for the first time, and with a camera in hand, most probably feels an urgent need to click-click-click. What they have seen is the iconic “Yellow Taxi”. Not only is the color beautiful, a deep yellow – like an egg yolk, but the shape of an Ambassador car is a style of its own. Round shapes all over. Pure nostalgia.

In recent years these yellow taxis have been replaced by white ones and who would lift their camera to take a photo of a white car. Instead, we stand firm with our cameras, ready at every corner and wait for a yellow taxi to pass. We place ourselves in a position so that when a yellow taxi appears it matches what we have already decided to put in the frame. If the first try fails, there will soon be another chance. The sea of cars is endless, pleasing to the eye only because of those yellow cars that light up even the most horrible traffic jam. In Kolkata, a yellow taxi always completes a photo.

Above: A yellow sign needs a yellow taxi. Just wait for it!

Above: The white Ambassador doesn’t draw the same attention as the yellow!

The facts are: The yellow taxis were introduced in 1962, but the yellow Ambassador was down to 7000 in 2024. India has a 15-year service limit on commercial vehicles which means that numbers will still decline. But will Kolkata let go of their yellow taxis? A cultural staple for decades?

There are still plenty left to make good photos, or so it seemed in February 2026. But the yellow taxi is probably not the chosen one when you’re going somewhere. We want Ubers and their likes who can tell us the price in advance and support us with GPS tracking.

Every member of the Kolkata Tourist Board is of course aware of how the Yellow Taxi is part of the city’s cultural identity. As are the hand-pulled rickshaws, but that is an identity harder to maintain.

A newspaper article in The Times of India (2025) reveals how the taxis of Kolkata can still be yellow, but alas, not necessarily in the shape of an Ambassador. The last Ambassador was manufactured in 2014 and the ones who still cruise the streets will slowly disappear. Instead, any taxi can now be painted yellow. But will a yellow taxi of any brand still be a Yellow Taxi? Probably not – at least not from a photographer’s view. Before the remaining 3000 yellow Ambassadors become history – get your camera ready!

Over: Taxis come to Wellington Square every morning where they’re groomed and made ready for another day!
Below: Negotiating a price is part of the game!

 

A chance meeting in Calcutta March 10, 2020

Filed under: INDIA,Travels — benjamuna @ 7:51 am
Tags: , , ,

Whenever I get a new guide book, I look up the shopping section and search for book shops. As was also the case when I opened my new ’Made in Kolkata’ and found Earthcare Books. Located only a short walk off Park Street, the shop was an easy find on Middelton street. I walked into a courtyard and found the shop behind a cafe.

        Earthcare Books is small and just the kind of bookstore I love, it also has a section for gifts and cards. But what caught my attention was the black and white postcards and prints by Irish photographer Thomas Patrick Kiernan. The photographs were taken on the streets of Calcutta and in some other cities in India; the motifs well known, but captured beautifully.

        Having singled out a few books for a maybe-later-buy, and picked a few postcards, I asked the man behind the desk for the price of the prints. “10 000 rupees he said,” which struck me as steep and too much for an impulsive buy.

        I returned to the shop three days later. When I entered the courtyard, I noticed a man, obviously European, sitting outside the bookshop. We greeted briefly, and I entered the shop. I didn’t waste any time, I once more asked the same young man about the price (I could always have misheard him three days earlier), and he confirmed the 10 000 rupees. As my home-stay doubles as an art gallery, I had consulted my host and knew what I had to ask: Did the prints have an edition?
        “No, they don’t,” a voice behind me said. It was the man outside the shop, he must have overheard the conversation and instinctively I knew he was the photographer – which he confirmed. I immediately felt ashamed about complaining about the price, and he must have understood, because he said, «You have any right to question the price.»
        And then he went on to explain that if he numbered the prints, he would never be able to guarantee that no more prints would be made. So, better not. He invited me to sit down, and the conversation lasted for the next hour. He told me he was using old fashioned film and even in India it’s expensive to buy and develop.  The paper was of a very high quality and thus expensive. «On that, I don’t budge, but it makes the prints more expensive», he said.

        He offered me chai, and went out to fetch it. When the small clay cup was placed in front of me, I asked him about his camera. He picked up a small Olympus up from his bag, looking vintage – after all it’s not digital, and told me he’s always using a 50 mm fixed lens. I’m not surprised. There seems to be two kinds of photographers, especially those concerned with street photography: Those with a bag full of lenses, ready to cater for any situation. And those swearing to a fixed lens.

Kiernan claims it’s less than ten copies in circulation of this particular print, I got the last. “It might become valuable,”, he smiled.

I asked him to convince me to buy The Clock, the print I had singled out, but he wouldn’t. “I’m no business man, I don’t really care if I sell my work or not.” A remark he immediately seemed to regret; I don’t think it was his intention to degrade his potential buyer.

        He told me he couldn’t stay in Calcutta, or India for that matter, for more than a few months at a time, it was too much of … everything. He would go back to Ireland and do odd jobs, like gardening, but he had some money and could live a relatively comfortable life. An old Nokia phone by his side told me his needs weren’t too extravagant, and web pages and social media had absolutely no place in his life.

        “Street photography in Europe is boring,” he said. “I have tried, but it came to nothing.” And we agreed that India is quite the opposite, overflowing with all kind of craze. He picked up some of the postcards I had chosen, and added, “These photos from the 90’s can’t be reproduced today. Calcutta is changing, and so is India.”

        He told me how he worked, how he never planned or staged anything, and yet, his compositions are not always accidental, he showed me several of his photos with a ‘twin motif’ and only a gifted photographer would able to put his ideas into action like that. “I shan’t deny that I’m influenced by Henri Cartier-Bresson,” he said, and picked up some of the French photographer’s books to show me.

        Now, he is slightly adopting a new style, and opened a mock-up of his new book, his previous book sadly out of print a long time ago. And that convinced me; the last copy of The Clock – leaning on a shelf above the entrance door, had to be mine. I would have to let go of the frame though; it would never fit into my carry-on which was all the luggage I had.

I happily walked out with the small tube containing the print, crossed the street, hurried up Little Russel Street, crossed Ho Chi Minh Street and entered into the noisy Shakespeare Sarani. I knew the way by heart now and I’d probably visit again once back in Calcutta.